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BEST NEW RESTAURANT 

Novel

Critics' Choice

It's a novel venue, all right: a creaky, somewhat claustrophobic Victorian two-story with small dining rooms on both floors and a spacious kitchen overseen by the impressively creative chef-owner Ryan Brazeal, formerly of New York's Momofuku. Brazeal composes the meals in this dinner-only restaurant with a fresh artistic vision and a daring modernity. The small menu changes frequently, but whatever is on it any given night proves anew that Brazeal isn't shy about taking complicated (sometimes labor-intensive) steps to achieve the look and flavors he seeks. His cleverly conceived dishes are as enticing to the intellect as they are to the senses.

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