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BEST PAIN-IN-THE-ASS RESTAURANT 

Peanches

Critics' Choice

If the food is good enough, a restaurant patron is often willing to overlook a bad location, unattractive décor, even mediocre service. Iconoclastic chef Pete Peterman's Peanches restaurant isn't in a bad location, is appealingly decorated, and has a perfectly charming staff. It's Peterman — notoriously brusque when he wants to be and downright rude when he's feeling cranky — who drives some patrons away. That said, he's a gifted chef, and his Peanches menu, with its regional meats and produce, boasts truly outstanding dishes. (And the prix fixe collection here is one of the best deals in town.) The menu changes frequently, but when he's offering his rack of lamb, pork loin with sweet-potato-maple puree, or warm apple-cornmeal crisp, you're in for a hell of a meal. And as long as you aren't the object of his scorn, dinner here can be a hell of a show, too.

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