The Kansas Andre's, which opened in 2002, is just as popular as its soeur location in Missouri, which Andre Bollier opened in 1955. At either location, it's almost impossible to decide: Will it be the roll of soft white cake filled with lemon butter cream and sheathed in a delicate citrus fondant? Or the towering Matterhorn of chocolate butter cream on a cookie base covered in sleek dark chocolate? Or something from the shiny glass cases, where beautifully iced and decorated pastries glisten like little bejeweled Fabergé boxes: a square of layered Napoleon iced in strawberry cream; sugar-lacquered strawberries, gleaming like fat rubies, perched on a swirl of pink mousse; wedges of truffle cake dusted in cocoa; petit fours draped in pearly vanilla fondant. They're almost too pretty to eat — which may be why they come in a red-and-white paper bag tied shut, quite firmly, with a red ribbon.
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