The women sip wine and smoke cigars and cigarettes. They chat loudly, so anyone within earshot can hear their story: They used to be a couple. Now they're just friends. In fact, one wears a wristwatch the other gave her as an apology gift. They're chilling on the patio at Harry's Bar and Tables. Harry's is more than a bar and tables. Harry's is a people-watching paradise. The amenities don't hurt (cigars, $5-$16; half-price bottles of wine until 7 p.m.; an upper-deck bar on Fridays and Saturdays through October), but all we really require are patio chairs and a draw of Boulevard. Tonight, the lesbian equivalents of Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church in Sideways provide the entertainment, talking about the evolution of their relationship. Also amusing: a pack of indie scenesters wasting time on the sidewalk along Pennsylvania. By 11 p.m. the patio will be packed, but we prefer the calm atmosphere. What's a patio good for if we can't chat?