Don't believe every menu you read. There's not much honest, beautifully marbled Kobe beef in this country because the USDA relaxed its longtime ban on Japanese beef just last year and now permits limited importation. The wagyu beef that chef Brian Aaron uses for his hamburgers is often called "American Kobe" because the domestic wagyu cattle are usually (but not always) from the same breed of cattle as the sought-after Japanese beef. Still, Aaron's house burger at Tannin tastes expensive, partly because the beef is so fine, and the slices of smoked cheddar and fresh tomato and the strips of very crispy bacon lend it major class. OK, $12 isn't cheap for a "regular" no-frills burger, but honestly, we'd pay more for this one. Don't tell Tannin.