You don't need to walk into downtown's most effervescent French boite talking into a cell phone. Or wearing an Armani suit. Or tossing an ermine coat aside. At Le Fou Frog, all the diners feel as if they've stepped onto the set of Fellini's La Dolce Vita because the spirited energy of the place is contagious: Strangers actually talk to each other at adjoining tables; the service can be good-natured or bitchy (both are highly entertaining); part-time host Bob Smith actually was a model in Paris during the high-glamour years of Balenciega, Chanel and Givenchy. Besides, where else can two impassioned lovers sit down for a meal of assorted caviars -- beluga, sevruga, osetra and American sturgeon -- with all the proper accoutrements, including toast points, chopped egg, capers, shallots, creme fraiche and two shots of Russian vodka?