If you really, really crave a tasty Reuben, your reward will require some effort. First you must navigate the West Bottoms, home to some of the city's most confusing streets, to find the almost-hidden Woodswether Café, a restaurant that we usually find only when we're not looking for it. (Here's a tip: It's not on Woodswether Road.) Then, if you're the type to whine about secondhand smoke, well, no Reuben for you. Despite a dinky nonsmoking section, the entire place smells like an ashtray. But if you can make it past these minor issues, then steady your stomach for tender, deli-worthy corned beef stacked on toasted rye, touched with just enough sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing to add dimension but not enough to make it drip. With a side of the Woodswether's excellent fries, we can barely finish half of it. But we suggest sharing only with someone who will appreciate the king of sandwiches in a seemingly shabby setting. If you don't like the Woodswether, we don't like you.