"Follow the smoke," Woodyard's owners say. Oh, the smoke. That smoke has led celebs Anthony Bourdain, the Black Keys and Guy Fieri south on Merriam Lane to this gravel drive, past this screen door, all the way to the brick smoker. There, Woodyard uses a mix of wesell oak, hickory and pecan, producing a scent that wafts across the train tracks and forever into memory. Order the baby back ribs. They're meaty and tender, smoked for about three hours and given an enchanting rub of spices: turmeric, sea salt, cardamom, clove, granulated garlic, cayenne pepper and lemon pepper. We've been known to order a full slab, half for today and half for tomorrow — and then live tomorrow right now by finishing the whole thing.