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BEST SEE-AND-BE-SEEN BRUNCH 

Port Fonda

Critics' Choice

Not everyone is going to be perky and clear-eyed enough for the intense noise level at Port Fonda at 10 a.m. on a Saturday or a Sunday, especially after a night of heavy drinking. But chef Patrick Ryan's hot, spicy menudo is a known cure for even the most head-pounding hangover (especially alongside something from the restaurant's bloody-mary bar), and as your head clears, you notice again just how sexy this room is. The place has been a magnet for musicians and artists from its first day, but those types tend to sleep in (knowing that this brunch is served until 4 p.m.), so at an earlier hour, the place takes on a different kind of cool. Arrive before noon and you may witness demure-seeming people — bankers, lawyers, young executives here for ricotta doughnuts and mugs of strong Oddly Correct coffee — who regard themselves and one another as the hipsters of their secret hearts.

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