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BEST SERVICE IN A RESTAURANT 

Novel

Critics' Choice

Federico Fellini said it was easier to be faithful to a restaurant than to a woman. If only every restaurant manager understood the brilliant truth of that statement. A great server is more than a well-groomed automaton carrying food from the kitchen to the table. Rather, excellence requires an encyclopedic knowledge about the venue, from the ingredients in every dish to the résumé of the chef. Very few local restaurants carry training that far, but Richard Garcia, who was at the stylish Pachamama's in Lawrence before taking the manager's position at Novel, has forged an eclectic, smoothly operating team that never misses a beat on any detail, from wine vintages to the provenance of the translucent trout roe on the sautéed char. It's the kind of service that inspires not merely faith but devotion.

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