Love is a many-splendored thing. Sex is a completely different story. Love is usually limited to parties of two; when it comes to sex, any number can play. That's why it's perfectly reasonable that the sexiest dish in the city serves anywhere from two to five people. The Cold Seafood Platter at the Bristol is loaded with aphrodisiacs: rubylike chunks of tuna tartare spill from a silvery horn; eight ice-cold oysters, freshly shucked, lie lusciously on a blanket of cracked ice; and eight jumbo shrimp all but wag their little pink tails, just begging to be dipped in a swath of punchy cocktail sauce. The best things in life aren't free, including this assortment of sensual, succulent seafood — priced at $47. But the passionate presentation of the dish is so sensational that it would be a sin to think about something as unsexy as a budget.