Sometimes it seems as if people on the snooty coasts just don't understand the pleasures of Midwestern living. But based on quotes in a June 4
New York Times story, some New Yorkers are starting to catch on. In "Chains Bring Strip Mall Flavor, or Lack of It, to Manhattan," writer Marian Burros can barely conceal an obvious disdain for the fact that big chain restaurants were poisoning a city that "prides itself on its individuality and its wealth of restaurants in every ethnic niche and for every pocketbook." Among infiltrators such as Outback Steakhouse, Red Lobster and Olive Garden was Kansas City's very own Applebee's. In fact, it was Applebee's that inspired the most entertaining commentary in Burros' article. "CEWe come here a lot," Leja Kress said with a nervous giggle as she, her sister and a colleague dined at Applebee's in Battery Park City before going to a movie next door. CEWe like the bland overpriced food,' she explained, about to order the Oriental chicken salad for $10.99. More peals of laughter from the table of hip young New Yorkers ... CEThis place cracks us up,' Ms. Kress continued. CEAll the fake memorabilia. It's like trying to look like it's old, but it's only been here a year.'" Burros talked to regular people and industry experts alike, and all of them pointed out that sometimes, you just crave the comfort of familiarity. Noting that menus are created by committees at corporate headquarters, Burros concluded that focus groups and computer programs regularly tweaked the recipes "to keep the flavor out." At Applebee's, Burros wrote, "what isn't fried is drenched in butter or cream, or covered with cheese or bacon." Yeah? And your point is?
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