With spring rolls, we sometimes wonder whether it's the sauce or the roll that makes the dish. Fortunately, dining at Vietnam Café in Columbus Park has helped us realize that the roll and the sauce are of equal importance. At Vietnam Café, the spring rolls are of the nonfried variety (that's a must), and you can order either traditional (ground pork and shrimp) or vegetarian rolls. Plump with soft vermicelli noodles, lettuce, cilantro and chives, they're expertly wrapped in thin, resilient (never thick or gummy) rice paper, and they pack a crisp crunch. Then there's the sauce. It's that perfect blend of sweet, spicy and salty intermingled with smooth, savory peanut throughout. It's the rolls. It's the sauce. It's both!