With so many flashy national steak houses in town, it's easy to forget the local joints, like Benton's, on the twentieth floor of the Westin Crown Center Hotel. Like the wallflower who gets ignored when brash new beauties dominate the dance, Benton's has been looking dowdy lately. The room still has a stunning view, but it hasn't had a major décor change in sixteen years, and the woodwork looks a little scuffed, the floors a shade worn. The steaks and service, however, are still first-class, especially the juicy and flavorful 10-ounce center-cut Kansas City strip. It isn't just a bargain at $26 (which includes bread and a potato). The wet-aged, certified Angus beef practically melts in your mouth. For nine bucks more, the restaurant throws in a shrimp cocktail and a Caesar salad. Who could have a beef with that?