Sullivan's Steakhouse, owned by the Wichita-based Del Frisco's Restaurant Group, describes its concept as "a 1940s Chicago-style steakhouse," though the Leawood location is closer in spirit to the Plaza's upscale Capital Grille than a brawny Windy City steak joint. But if you're going to pay more than 40 bucks for a 24-ounce porterhouse, damn it, you better feel like you're eating the best beef in town. And to Sullivan's credit, all the steaks — from the 6-ounce filet to the gorgeously tender bone-in Kansas City strip — are certified Angus beef, beautifully prepared and beyond satisfying. True, it's an investment to dine here: Entrées include only the wedge salad (hey, it's a great wedge salad), while side dishes such as the baked spud go for about seven bucks. But the servers look like models — leggy waitresses are encouraged to wear fishnet stockings — and their excellent, attentive service makes Sullivan's feel more like a 1940s movie than a '40s steakhouse.