Although the load-up-your-plate-from-the-buffet style of brunch has fallen out of favor over the past few years, some breakfast devotees still prefer to commit the sin of gluttony over dining discreetly on a simple plate of eggs and bacon. For Sunday-morning sinners with big appetites and a sense of decorum, one restaurant takes the buffet to a distinctly different level. Cinzetti's offers dozens of dishes -- both Italian-American lunch choices and traditional brunch offerings -- but at eight different stations (of the culinary variety, not the cross), so that instead of greedily piling up one plate, diners can tastefully put two or three items on a plate, eat them, then go back to sample two or three more things. The fare at Cinzetti's is better than most buffet joints, and the eggs Benedict, maple-glazed sweet rolls, made-to-order omelets, crisp tortino di patate
(an Italian version of hash browns) and sausages cooked with peppers and onions are surprisingly delicious. Even better, it's one of the least expensive brunches in town -- and isn't frugality a virtue?