910 West 48th Street | 816-561-7136
A mural of Napa, California, is painted on the concrete dividers along 48th Street that separate the doomed West Edge project from J.J.'s Restaurant. The colorful ode to wine offers a cheerful reminder of why the beleaguered J.J.'s remains beloved among those who have continued to patronize this classic-looking restaurant and bar. The food ranges from delicate (see the mussels in white-wine sauce) to rustic (boar sausage, anyone?), and the servers are knowledgeable without being officious. But as pretty and efficient as the dining room is, we like the bar even better. There's enough room at its tables that back-slapping reunions and hand-holding dates can co-exist, and the bar itself feels like a discreet place to talk one on one even when the after-work suits begin filing in. Attention to drink detail is exacting, the wine and liquor selections are top-notch, and girl drinks are rendered without judgment. With a resolution to the West Edge debacle in sight and a probable end to the valet-scrambling chaos outside the doors at J.J.'s, we hope the place finally gets the resurgence it deserves. For now, we'll relish a few more quiet glasses of prosecco while the rest of the city forgets just how easy the parking around here really is.