Things that a sushi joint doesn't need: bumping club music, expensive cocktails with pseudo-Japanese names, spiky-haired waiters with attitudes, 30-minute waits for a table. Things that a sushi joint must have: a pretty interior, white rice that's neither too sticky nor too moist, rolls in bite-sized pieces, fish so fresh that a piece of raw salmon can be cut cleanly in half with one chomp. Jun's has all of these latter things -- and enough style to make us forget that we're eating sushi in a Kansas strip mall. The menu is simple and consistent (though treats like fatty tuna aren't always available, depending on the market), and the cooked udon soups and teriyaki are built to suit those not ready to sample sea urchin. Service is fast and efficient, and we hear that the friendly, family-run staff will even tolerate sake bombs (a glass of sake dunked in a beer, preferably Sapporo). But go easy on those -- nobody wants to see your Shamu impression.
