Kansas City has several exceptional sushi restaurants, but there's something eccentric and lovable about this Lawrence institution that takes dining to another level. You have to admire a sushi parlor that carefully stores the chopsticks of its favored clients in an ornate cabinet and offers a few Korean dishes in addition to the usual tempura and teriyaki for the non-sushi enthusiasts. But who could resist the array of beautiful, traditional nigiri, sashimi and creative rolls on the sushi side of the menu? Creative is putting it mildly: If a Sean Connery roll doesn't evoke a passionate response, then there's the more intensely satisfying 740 (Heart Attack) Roll, a crispy deep-fried assemblage of spicy tuna, jalapeño peppers and cream cheese that manages to combine the best of Japan, Mexico and Philadelphia in one culinary thrill. Another cross-cultural innovation: Wa's "sushi pizza" with chopped fresh fish, onion, crab, avocado and masago on a fried rice patty. Like everything at Wa, you have to experience it to believe it.