Finally, the lovely, jiggling, white bean-curd product has come into its own, and diners have learned the ancient secret of tofu: its tastelessness is its beauty. It sucks up the flavor of whatever you cook it with. Therein lies the yumminess of Viet Nam's ginger tofu. It's fried, then cooked in a slightly sweet gingery brown sauce floating with thin strips of its tangy namesake root. The result: slightly crunchy little pillows that taste like heaven.