No less a fussy diner than Karen Peters, the general manager at Saks Fifth Avenue, extols the virtues of Kevin, the good-natured, engaging waiter at Hannah Bistro. Like most good waiters, Kevin intuitively gauges his customers' mood the moment he arrives at the table: Do they want him to be chatty and friendly? Formal and distant? A pariah, priest, prophet, or psychic? "I've seen him remain calm and focused," says Peters, "even when his shirt was splashed with cherry sauce, even when horrible people were treating him terribly, even when the place was swamped and he was juggling 10 things at once." Restaurant co-owner Patrick Quillec agrees: "Kevin is my best waiter because he goes the extra mile. Customers always request him because he takes his job very seriously."