It's not often one meets a polished server such as Bruce Owens -- the wine steward and server at the Peppercorn Duck Club -- who has made a career decision to stay in the restaurant business. Owens has been a fixture at the Duck Club for 21 years, most of his adult life, and his experience is evident in his graciousness and attention to detail. These days he's called upon more for his wine expertise than for his waiting skills, but some customers insist that he, and only he, oversee their dinner. "He not only knows a great deal about wine and food, but he has that innate ability to make people feel good," says Nassy Saidian, the Hyatt's food-and-beverage director, who has known Owens for two decades. "He's gracious, funny, accommodating. He can walk up to a table and know instantly, without any verbal communication, what they expect from their dining experience." In the restaurant business, Saidian adds, "It's all about timing, and Bruce has it."