The best waiters know precisely when to be invisible or chatty, informative or reflective, coddling or hands-off. David Aguiar, a four-year veteran of the Plaza's busiest seafood restaurant, has so much of this sixth sense that he could be telling fortunes instead of suggesting wine vintages or describing the perfect sauce for Chilean sea bass. "David is one of our corporate trainers who travels to different McCormick & Schmick restaurants around the country to help train new staff members," the restaurant's food and beverage manager, Brent Grider, tells us. "So he's a total pro. He has a complete grasp of our menu, which changes daily. And his personal style is very appealing to our customers. He's friendly, flexible and relates to all kinds of personalities." That's no fish story.