We like this Westport Road hangout, despite the fact that when it's crowded, it sounds like a high school basketball court at halftime. Boozefish has some acoustic problems, but perhaps it's all the yelling that people must do to hear one another at a Boozefish happy hour that helps it avoid that pretentious, grape-sucking, wine-joint feel. Not that the servers and bartenders don't know a good pour; we love the service of longtime waitress Maggie Cushman, who's always quick with a suggestion, and we like that the list is complex and varied without being phone-book-thick and intimidating. And each November, Boozefish makes us feel like we're in France by celebrating the release of the year's Beaujolais Nouveau, a red wine disguised as a white. Beaujolais isn't actually regarded as a classic wine. These days, its uncorking is celebrated basically as a reason to party, which is about as Kansas City as France can get.