Breakfast, lunch and dinner -- three meals in Lawrence aren't enough 

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All of the featured sauces here, which sound almost too exotic for their own good, are memorable. Bob raved about the featured soup, a hearty pozole loaded with puffs of hominy, slow-cooked pork and fresh avocado. Debbie insisted that I taste the spicy, seductively seasoned bowl of Cuban red beans and rice, dappled with cubes of milky tofu and fresh vegetables.

Because the joint is a taqueria, I went for the signature item: a soft flour tortilla stuffed with hunks of flaky pan-seared corvina, fried plantains, a spoonful of rice and — once again — the ancho-lime coconut sauce. Extraordinary. This is a fish taco with style and flair, not the typical lump of deep-fried white fish tucked into a tortilla with a little chopped cabbage.

There are three vegetarian tacos. I was intrigued by the calabaza, which held a vivid-orange pumpkin-and-butternut-squash puree, grilled zucchini and a soothing goat-cheese cream. The Kobe beef taco, the only one served in a crispy corn tortilla shell, was my least favorite. The crumbly beef was dry, and the pickled onion and chili-lime mayo lacked the zest to give the taco enough character.

The desserts sounded exquisite: dulce de leche with ice cream, coconut rice pudding, and cinnamon-dusted fried churros with a chocolate dipping sauce. They're all made in-house and, mercifully, they're miles from trashy Tex-Mex confections such as fried ice cream or that Frankenstein's monster merger of Midwestern tastes and Mexican textures, the "choco taco."

We didn't have time to stay for dessert, and I was so perturbed about driving away without sampling homemade dulce de leche that I impulsively stopped at WheatFields for a cookie, just in case I got hungry on the drive back to Kansas City. It wasn't exactly what I was craving, but as something to eat with my hands on the wheel, it worked just fine.

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