A cheapskate’s tour of Kansas City restaurants reveals some surprises.

Dining for Dollars 

A cheapskate’s tour of Kansas City restaurants reveals some surprises.

Many years ago, I was moved by reading actress Shirley MacLaine's account of being a poor young dancer in New York during the 1950s. In order to survive, she was clever at making meals out of nothing — at visits to a low-cost cafeteria, she'd buy a single order of raisin toast and make lemonade out of a glass of water, lemon wedges and packets of sugar. It wasn't much, but it was fortifying enough to be a sort of meal.

I remember wondering whether I'd ever have to be that creative to survive.

I did face some tough financial times, and though I never had to live on lemonade and toast, there's a reason I can't even look at frozen potpies or a peanut-butter sandwich today. Still, I was lucky to work in restaurants during those years because those jobs afforded me either a free meal before a shift or a discount on food.

And I learned to keep track of which bars offered a decent spread during happy hour. In the 1980s, competition for the bar crowd got so intense that ambitious clubs mounted elaborate buffets of cocktail fare — a lot of fried and salty stuff so that customers would get thirsty and order more booze — where I unashamedly stuffed myself for the cost of a single Bud Light. And there was always Putsch's Cafeteria on the Plaza, where, if you ordered judiciously, you could get as many as five items, including dessert, for about seven bucks.

Now, as a professional restaurant reviewer, I get reimbursed for many of my meals. But I still look at the right-hand side of the menu — the prices — with more scrutiny that you might expect. (I do have a budget, after all.) And though I've eaten in plenty of good dives on my gastronomic journey, those aren't the places that lure me when I'm spending my own dough.

In fact, when I'm taking myself out to eat, I should probably be more of a penny pincher than I am. My Aunt Josephine reminds me that I should be saving every possible cent, especially with recession looming. "You'll be sorry you spent money on fancy dinners when you're living in a homeless shelter!" she warned me. When I scoffed at her fears, she added, "You'll eat those words someday."

Someday? I was eating them last week! I decided to follow Aunt Jo's advice and stretch my dining dollars as far as I could without compromising my health or my sanity. No convenience-store hot dogs or breakfast sandwiches, no fast-food burgers from the "budget menu" — in fact, no fast food at all. And no sneaking into certain hotel lobbies to snag food from the complimentary breakfast buffet, an idea suggested by a former co-worker.

I don't mind actually paying for breakfast, but I do have certain inflexible standards, which is why I can't succumb to the so-called bargain known as the McDonald's Big Breakfast: a flat box made of some synthetic material containing a squiggle of rubbery scrambled eggs, a tasteless soggy biscuit, a floppy sausage patty and a compact disc of deep-fried hash browns. In midtown, this culinary delight costs $4.93 plus tax. I'd much rather sit down and order the good ol' "Country Breakfast" at Chubby's, which is a real deal at $5.09 (plus tax and gratuity). It's served on a real plate and includes two eggs, two pieces of good bacon, a thick sausage patty and a better-than-average biscuit split and drenched in sausage gravy. Even better than the food are the people in the joint, who can sometimes seem like the cast of a John Waters film.

  • A cheapskate’s tour of Kansas City restaurants reveals some surprises.

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Don't forget about Hereford House! Their happy hour includes a 4 oz. Bacon-wrapped Filet Oscar ($8), an 8 oz. Kansas City Strip ($8) and a half-pound Steakburger with fries ($4). Pair one of those with a $3 glass of house Cabernet and you've got a great cheapskate meal, at one of the finest steakhouses in town. Yum!

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Posted by Goofy Girl on January 30, 2008 at 10:25 AM

Don't forget about Hereford House! Their happy hour includes a 4 oz. Bacon-wrapped Filet Oscar ($8), an 8 oz. Kansas City Strip ($8) and a half-pound Steakburger with fries ($4). Pair one of those with a $3 glass of house Cabernet and you've got a great cheapskate meal, at one of the finest steakhouses in town. Yum!

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Posted by Goofy Girl on January 30, 2008 at 7:25 AM
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