This past year, Kansas City's restaurant scene has had more ups and downs — a whole lot of downs, actually — than I can remember in more than a decade.
The year opened with such promise. One of my first reviews in 2008 was of Vinino, the super-sized Italian restaurant in the Power & Light District.
Over the following 11 months, slick new restaurants continued to open in the P&L District with great fanfare, while elsewhere around the metro, they began falling like dominoes. I wasn't surprised — Kansas City's restaurant market was saturated, so a shake-up was to be expected. But I was surprised by how many venerated venues fell by the wayside: Debbie Gold's 40 Sardines in Leawood and the Avelutto family's Il Trullo in Overland Park; the cozy MelBee's in Mission; the Bollywood Bistro in Independence; and, after a 78-year run, the iconic Jerre Ann Cafeteria & Bakery in St. Joseph. "How appropriate," one Jerre Ann fan wrote after I mourned its passing last summer, "that Jerre Ann's opened during the Great Depression and closed during the Great Recession!"
I was sorry that downtown's Mango Room closed after waiting out all the downtown-construction madness of the P&L District. The Mango Room's owner, Thelma Oliver, now works at the Blue Grotto in Brookside, a glamorous new pizza joint.
And a farewell toast to a few more personal favorites of mine: Ali and Stephanie Shirazi, who shuttered Shiraz Restaurant; Martin and Wendy Rudderforth, who made the painful decision to close Pangea Café & Market; and Patrick Quillec — wherever he is — who closed Cassis. And the owners of Vinh Hoa, in the Northland — their departure means no more of the best banh mi baguette sandwiches in town. Happily, there's a fine version of that Vietnamese sandwich among the other eclectic offerings at Happy Gillis, which opened early this year in the historic Northeast.
Not only a few legendary restaurants closed, but also a few restaurant legends passed away. The larger-than-life restaurateur Tom Macaluso died, at age 58, in his apartment on June 8. Customers either loved or hated the bombastic Tommy, but he didn't give a damn, which was a big part of his charm. Macaluso didn't suffer fools gladly, and those who rubbed him the wrong way will never forget his wrath. His loyal friends remember him for his generosity and kindness. I'll just remember his wicked wit; he was one of the funniest men in Kansas City.
Another amazingly funny restaurant personality, former Kansas City Star restaurant critic Shifra Stein, died of cancer on May 29 at age 67. Shifra had a devilish spot-on take on just about every subject. After leaving the Star, she reinvented herself as the creator of a Day Trips book series, as a talented visual artist, and as a sought-after lecturer on the art of overcoming depression — something she had battled with courage and humor.
For many in the community, the biggest shock was the untimely death of Lauren Chapin, the Star's most recent restaurant reviewer. Chapin was only 50 when she died of a brain aneurysm in early December. Her unexpected passing, a friend of mine says, was the capstone to 2008 as annus horribilis.
It was rough going for restaurateurs who tried to carry on after others had gone. Scott Warren, the longtime chef at Macaluso's namesake restaurant, took over the lease when Macaluso's closed in 2007. Warren opened his own bistro, Scotty's on 39th Street, that summer. He most assuredly had a following for his culinary skills, but by March of this year, Scotty was no longer on 39th Street, and the venue was empty. Two other enterprising restaurateurs, Leah Clayman and Brenda Carlsen, snapped up the location. The two young chefs were certainly talented — I had two great meals at their Bella Restaurant and Coffeehouse. But before I had a chance to write a review, the place was locked. An optimistic, hand-written note, taped on the door, said Bella had closed for "remodeling and rewiring," but it never re-opened. Ditto for the Spitfire Grill just up the street, which fizzled out in October.
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Yes! I use to have a small cafe, it caught fire in 2002. I would love to find a place to open if the rent is low enough that I could stay in business!
Yes! I use to have a small cafe, it caught fire in 2002. I would love to find a place to open if the rent is low enough that I could stay in business!
Charles-
Moving back to the KC area in a few months after living abroad. Thought I'd check out what was going on in the KC foodie scene. I was very glad to see you are still around and still writing for the Pitch. But I am in shock after reading this column about the deaths of Shifra and Lauren. Stunned. Speechless. Saddened.
But thank you for letting me know all the good and bad that has happened in KC for 2008. Looking forward to coming back to the area, reading your column, and cannot wait to have some proper BBQ!
Charles- Moving back to the KC area in a few months after living abroad. Thought I'd check out what was going on in the KC foodie scene. I was very glad to see you are still around and still writing for the Pitch. But I am in shock after reading this column about the deaths of Shifra and Lauren. Stunned. Speechless. Saddened. But thank you for letting me know all the good and bad that has happened in KC for 2008. Looking forward to coming back to the area, reading your column, and cannot wait to have some proper BBQ!
You can get bahn mi at Vietnam Cafe on 5th & Campbell. It's not on the menu, but just ask and they'll make you one. They're even better than Vinh Hoa's were and they're only $3.00!
You can get bahn mi at Vietnam Cafe on 5th & Campbell. It's not on the menu, but just ask and they'll make you one. They're even better than Vinh Hoa's were and they're only $3.00!
I can't find anywhere on the site to send this to the management of The Pitch so I'll put it here.
That is, I was just informed by my partner that a local Kansas City blog announded Charles Ferruzza has been let go by this magazine.
I have to tell you, the reason I read The Pitch is, first and foremost, for Charles' restaurant reviews. Anything else I get out of your publication is a side benefit. Mr. Ferruzza's column is witty, intelligent, fun, funny and helpful in finding and avoiding good and bad restaurant experiences, respectively.
Seriously, if you don't have Mr. Ferruzza's writing in your paper, I'm personally going to no longer need to pick up your paper. That may not be the end of your financial world and existence but it's certainly evidence of one loyal reader's response to this action, if you should take it.
Let me be clear, I'm not a friend of Mr. Ferruzza's. I just like his writing and information that much.
Sincerely,
Kevin Evans
Kansas City, Missouri
I can't find anywhere on the site to send this to the management of The Pitch so I'll put it here. That is, I was just informed by my partner that a local Kansas City blog announded Charles Ferruzza has been let go by this magazine. I have to tell you, the reason I read The Pitch is, first and foremost, for Charles' restaurant reviews. Anything else I get out of your publication is a side benefit. Mr. Ferruzza's column is witty, intelligent, fun, funny and helpful in finding and avoiding good and bad restaurant experiences, respectively. Seriously, if you don't have Mr. Ferruzza's writing in your paper, I'm personally going to no longer need to pick up your paper. That may not be the end of your financial world and existence but it's certainly evidence of one loyal reader's response to this action, if you should take it. Let me be clear, I'm not a friend of Mr. Ferruzza's. I just like his writing and information that much. Sincerely, Kevin Evans Kansas City, Missouri
Charles, I loved the column, nice (and sad) overview.
I read it while "chowing down" on Breakfast at Waid's in Prairie Village. That is THE hot spot for breakfast in this part of the Metro. Down home, plain 'ole food..nothing fou fou or frilly like, say First Watch (not my fav) or Panera...at Waid's they actually wait on you.
And, as an aside, they make the BEST coconut cream pie in the City. I love going to Jerry's for breakfast, but, when I don't feel like traveling much farther than rolling out of bed, Waid is it. We often go for dinner too and they have trout that's better than the trout at the Bristol.
Have a happy new year and will keep reading you and listening to you on KCUR.
Deanna Rudd
Charles, I loved the column, nice (and sad) overview. I read it while "chowing down" on Breakfast at Waid's in Prairie Village. That is THE hot spot for breakfast in this part of the Metro. Down home, plain 'ole food..nothing fou fou or frilly like, say First Watch (not my fav) or Panera...at Waid's they actually wait on you. And, as an aside, they make the BEST coconut cream pie in the City. I love going to Jerry's for breakfast, but, when I don't feel like traveling much farther than rolling out of bed, Waid is it. We often go for dinner too and they have trout that's better than the trout at the Bristol. Have a happy new year and will keep reading you and listening to you on KCUR. Deanna Rudd
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