The Kemper Museum's Café Sebastienne takes artistic license.

Night Gallery 

The Kemper Museum's Café Sebastienne takes artistic license.

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Bob grumbled at the ribeye's fattiness but ate nearly every bite, though he pointedly ignored "that so-called potato." But Mike's pan-seared Canadian walleye pike, a flaky slab of fish drenched in a cider and Calvados cream sauce, was the real star of the evening.

Until, that is, we encountered more fantastic forgeries -- the carrot cake blanketed in cream-cheese icing; an apple-and-cranberry crisp; and Maloney's signature dessert, the warm chocolate budino (the Italian term for American pudding), which is something closer to a fluffy fudge, all swathed in whipped cream. In fact, Café Sebastienne's desserts are much prettier and more sensual than the Wayne Thiebaud painting ("Cakes & Pies") on display in the museum's main gallery. They prove that life should never merely imitate art when it can, instead, surpass it.

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