September 02, 2004 Dining » Restaurant Reviews

Like all women who truly understand pleasure, Lidia's holds up well.
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On the Sauce 

Like all women who truly understand pleasure, Lidia's holds up well.

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click to enlarge Lidia's remains one of the city's most elegant dining - rooms. - Luke Echterling
  • Luke Echterling
  • Lidia's remains one of the city's most elegant dining rooms.

Lidia's Kansas City

Family-Style Insalata Cesare $11
Lidia's Sunday Sauce $29
Pollo con limone e olive $16
Lo stinco di Agnello $18
Pork chop with Missouri peaches $16
Salad with arugula and gorgonzola $7.50
Panna cotta $6.50
101 West 22nd Street, 816-221-3722. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Sunday; dinner served 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Price: $$-$$$

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"This place is like an aging movie star," he announced. "A star who still looks good and doesn't need a face-lift. But she does need to be rediscovered. I think with all the new restaurants that have opened, people have forgotten how fabulous Lidia's really is."

The idea of aging stars reminded me of a quote by the still-gorgeous Sophia Loren, one I much prefer to Julia Child's unflattering line about Italian cuisine. "Everything you see," Sophia said, "I owe to spaghetti."

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  • Like all women who truly understand pleasure, Lidia's holds up well.

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