Like all women who truly understand pleasure, Lidia's holds up well.

On the Sauce 

Like all women who truly understand pleasure, Lidia's holds up well.

Page 3 of 3

"This place is like an aging movie star," he announced. "A star who still looks good and doesn't need a face-lift. But she does need to be rediscovered. I think with all the new restaurants that have opened, people have forgotten how fabulous Lidia's really is."

The idea of aging stars reminded me of a quote by the still-gorgeous Sophia Loren, one I much prefer to Julia Child's unflattering line about Italian cuisine. "Everything you see," Sophia said, "I owe to spaghetti."

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