Pain and Pleasure 

Page 3 of 3

Wanting to sample one of the six pasta choices, I settled on steak and wild-mushroom fettuccine, which looked and tasted like old-fashioned beef stroganoff, but really, really good beef stroganoff. (It's made with veal stock and red wine -- better than mama's but it evokes the same nostalgia.)

Still, I was tickled to find that it's one of a handful of favorite dishes from the past that get first-class treatment at M&S Grill, along with a fine Cobb salad, the pot roast and fried shrimp, and marionberry pie (the only dessert not made in this restaurant's kitchen). Back when Kansas City had a thriving, vital downtown, these were the kinds of dishes that diners might have found at restaurants like Bretton's or the Westport Room, proving, as Peter Allen once sang, that everything old is new again.

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