These days, record labels aren't categorized by the physical location of their studios (think Motown or Sun) but by the stylistic leanings of their artists. The Fresh & Onlys stand next to Thee Oh Sees, Wounded Lion and Cheap Time as some of the best in modern garage. On tour in support of its upcoming EP, Secret Walls, the San Francisco quartet sounds like it has become perpetually cloudy in stereotypically sunny California. Wisps of melancholy seep through the band's haunting garage-pop jangle. Tim Cohen's straightforward, candid voice provides an anchor to the occasional drum fit or guitar freakout. Despite the dark overtones, the music isn't a low-energy whinefest. Listeners can count on the Fresh & Onlys to crank out elbow-throwing, moody rumbles all night.