The new Peachtree Restaurant is glamorous enough for the Power & Light District, but the original buffet is more fun 

My friend Truman loves soul food — he's from the South — and has eaten at the new Peachtree Restaurant in the Power & Light District several times. His major complaint about the place has nothing to do with the food.

"No one there can mix a decent martini," he told me. "If you order one, you feel like you're a sinner among a pack of good Christian teetotalers."

I don't know why he'd feel that way — this newest venue in the expanding Peachtree empire has a bar near the entrance. A large and glamorous bar, in fact, with televisions mounted above shelves stacked with neatly arranged bottles of the very best hooch. That bar says a lot about the evolution of the Willis family's restaurants, which started in 1996 with a buffet — still one of the best meal deals in town — on Eastwood Trafficway. With the opening of their polished and elegant sit-down dining room in the 18th and Vine District five years later, they went upscale.

The Willis family didn't serve alcohol (and didn't plan to) at 18th and Vine. After all, they were used to the buffet's clientele, which consisted primarily of churchgoing people who preferred lemonade to citron vodka martinis. They did serve mimosa cocktails made with nonalcoholic sparkling wine; not until customers started requesting something a little more spirited did the Willises add a small but tasteful wine list.

In the P&L District, where liquor is one of the primary attractions, it made sense for the newest Peachtree Restaurant to go with the flow. But the flow was a little unsteady at the beginning. When I first dined there last November, I took along Bob, Truman, Fred and Georgina. Fred and Georgina are of a generation that starts every meal, except breakfast, with a nice cool cocktail. When Georgina was served a martini in a highball glass — without so much as an olive, mind you — she was so scandalized that she got up, walked across the dining room and showed the stunned bartender how to mix a cocktail her way.

Truman says he had to do the same thing on a later visit. "When I have a plate of smothered pork chops, I simply have to have a little vodka to go with it," he explains. "It's a tradition that dates back to Ponce de León!"

The food was excellent at that meal, but I noticed issues that remain problems three months later. Either the dining room is seriously understaffed or the staff is undertrained — or both. As a former waiter and busboy, nothing irritates me more than seeing plates stack up on tables: appetizer plates not removed before the salad course, dinner plates shoved to the side before dessert. On my last visit, I noticed that it wasn't just our table that hadn't been bused but all the tables around us. I got so annoyed that I almost asked for an apron to do the job myself.

Servers are clearly working hard. The bus staff, on the other hand, gives a somewhat languid performance. And don't get me started on managers who linger at the hostess station when there are plates on any table that obviously need to be picked up. I've worked with a lifetime of those divas, and they can kill a good restaurant.

So can a second-rate bartender, but the Peachtree seems to have solved that problem. Even though we were there on a Sunday afternoon, I saw plenty of martini glasses brimming with Cosmopolitans delivered to thirsty customers.

"It's a beautiful restaurant," Franklin said as he looked around the second-floor space, with its wall of windows, pretty appointments and a shiny grand piano. Accompanying us that day were Lauren and her 12-year-old daughter, Brittany, who had definite opinions on everything, starting with an appetizer of fried okra and green tomatoes. This isn't a modestly priced appetizer, so it should at least have some visual appeal. But the four heavily breaded tomato slices and tiny bowl of crunchy little okra nuggets looked almost forlorn, even with a little dish of ranch dressing.

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Had lunch today, evaluating the restaurant for booking for tour groups visiting Kansas City. Food and service were excellent, and hospitality was expressed by all personnel.
the mac and cheese was every bit as good as homemade, very nice salad and excellent sauces and tasty fried catfish. Wine glasses were served full, not 1/2 full as with most other restaurants. Reasonable price for top quality food and service.

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Posted by Diane Montague on May 14, 2009 at 7:46 PM

Had lunch today, evaluating the restaurant for booking for tour groups visiting Kansas City. Food and service were excellent, and hospitality was expressed by all personnel. the mac and cheese was every bit as good as homemade, very nice salad and excellent sauces and tasty fried catfish. Wine glasses were served full, not 1/2 full as with most other restaurants. Reasonable price for top quality food and service.

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Posted by Diane Montague on May 14, 2009 at 4:46 PM

Ha Lauren and Charles,
I am a longtime fan of the Peachtree Restaurants and after reading your article it was obvious to me that you were trying to hurt the Peachtree. So I decided to put my two cents in, I don't believe you Lauren when she stated she became "ill after eating at the Peachtree" that was a vicious attack.

I am sure if that were true Lord Charles would have included that in his racist article also. That comment alone shows your lack of creditability and you are fit to judge a dog fight let alone soul food.

Also, Lauren I am sure the menu was not designed with you in mind.

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Posted by Angela Douglas on March 16, 2009 at 4:07 PM

Ha Lauren and Charles, I am a longtime fan of the Peachtree Restaurants and after reading your article it was obvious to me that you were trying to hurt the Peachtree. So I decided to put my two cents in, I don't believe you Lauren when she stated she became "ill after eating at the Peachtree" that was a vicious attack. I am sure if that were true Lord Charles would have included that in his racist article also. That comment alone shows your lack of creditability and you are fit to judge a dog fight let alone soul food. Also, Lauren I am sure the menu was not designed with you in mind.

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Posted by Angela Douglas on March 16, 2009 at 1:07 PM

Thank you so much for the AA idea but how can you get drunk on Really Sweet Ice Teas?

I have to at least tell you that I don't drink when my daughter is around. Plus on the comment about how can Charles take the words of a 12-year-old child? My daughter is very well diverse in her eating culture. He was only listening to her opinion on the meal. Children are allowed to attend the Peachtree and other restaurants who says they don't get to have an opinion.

Oh Brittany Darling, � Why don�t you go and pour Mummy another Martini!�




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Posted by Lauren on March 8, 2009 at 1:22 PM

Thank you so much for the AA idea but how can you get drunk on Really Sweet Ice Teas? I have to at least tell you that I don't drink when my daughter is around. Plus on the comment about how can Charles take the words of a 12-year-old child? My daughter is very well diverse in her eating culture. He was only listening to her opinion on the meal. Children are allowed to attend the Peachtree and other restaurants who says they don't get to have an opinion. Oh Brittany Darling, “ Why don’t you go and pour Mummy another Martini!”

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Posted by Lauren on March 8, 2009 at 10:22 AM

Geez, The Truth, comment much using the internet? Go easy on that end button. Your comments weren't worth reading four times. The food at the Peachtree is great, the bar service needs work and the waiters need a little more training. What's wrong with that?

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Posted by Marian on March 6, 2009 at 12:57 AM

Geez, The Truth, comment much using the internet? Go easy on that end button. Your comments weren't worth reading four times. The food at the Peachtree is great, the bar service needs work and the waiters need a little more training. What's wrong with that?

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Posted by Marian on March 5, 2009 at 9:57 PM

Don't forget the Buffet Charles. You reviewed the Buffet once, 18th and Vine twice, Lee's Summit once and downtown once. We have been mentioned in articles where you "promoted" other resturants as viable alternatives, which is fully within your right. But let's get this misconception or absurdity cleared up. If your intentions were to "critque" the atmosphere, decor, or bar bottles then you wouldn't be a FOOD CRITIC!!!EVERY Peachtree menu signature food item, including smothered chops, fried chicken, mac and cheese, collard greens, candied yams, and oh yes, PEACH COBBLER, are all made by the SAME RECIPES. They have been the same for over a DECADE. No differences between the Buffet, Lee's Summit, 18th and Vine or downtown. Same recipes.
But what is truly disheartening is that we realize we have certain service issues. You and other so called experts will not give us a fighting chance. I eat out twice a week, and receive horrible service at least 50% of the time. Why don't I complain? because I know what it's like. We live it everyday. We are by nature sympathetic. But when it comes to the Peachtree, we seem to be held to a standard that presently we could never achieve. I know I can't be the only one receiving this bad service at resturants throughout the metro. But for some reason, when it happens at the Peachtree (AND THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR BAD FOOD OR SERVICE), it's like the world is ending. Blogs, articles, comments come from everywhere. They threaten to call the mayor, governor, national guard and naval reserves. Surely I jest, but it feels that way. We are improving everyday with our total customer service, as well as a three month old restaurant can. Our application box is full of inner-city KIDS who never waited a day in their lives. They haven't been exposed to a 3,4 or five star restaurant....EVER!!!. So not only do we have to train them on being outstanding servers, we have to teach them simple MANNERS!! Go figure. It's not their fault, it's what life has dealt us all. But we will not complain, whine or quit. Actually it's the opposite, because we know that we are contributing to this community, in a small but significant way. What we teach them they will carry thoughout their lives and we are surely proud of that.

P.S.And by the way, if you know any experienced servers or bartenders I'm hiring!!!

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Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 5:18 PM

I think I need to clarify some very absurd misinformation and misconceptions here. The Peachtree Restaurant in the Power & Light District was reviewed for the one and only time this week. There have been references to the restaurant and some of its dishes in other articles and blog posts, but the Cafe review this week marks the only time that this restaurant has been given a full review. There was a review of the Peach Tree Restaurant in Lee's Summit in May of 2008. It is a very different restaurant from the venue in the Power & Light, thus it required a separate and distinctive review. I might note that the Peachtree restaurants are family-owned, not operated by a corporate chain. Each of the restaurants, including the now-closed facility at 18th and Paseo, were unique in their own way.
As to the comment that I did not review the Bice Bistro -- that is patently false. That restaurant received a review on October 21, 2008. I encourage you to look it up on our archives.

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Posted by Charles on March 5, 2009 at 2:38 PM

Don't forget the Buffet Charles. You reviewed the Buffet once, 18th and Vine twice, Lee's Summit once and downtown once. We have been mentioned in articles where you "promoted" other resturants as viable alternatives, which is fully within your right. But let's get this misconception or absurdity cleared up. If your intentions were to "critque" the atmosphere, decor, or bar bottles then you wouldn't be a FOOD CRITIC!!!EVERY Peachtree menu signature food item, including smothered chops, fried chicken, mac and cheese, collard greens, candied yams, and oh yes, PEACH COBBLER, are all made by the SAME RECIPES. They have been the same for over a DECADE. No differences between the Buffet, Lee's Summit, 18th and Vine or downtown. Same recipes. But what is truly disheartening is that we realize we have certain service issues. You and other so called experts will not give us a fighting chance. I eat out twice a week, and receive horrible service at least 50% of the time. Why don't I complain? because I know what it's like. We live it everyday. We are by nature sympathetic. But when it comes to the Peachtree, we seem to be held to a standard that presently we could never achieve. I know I can't be the only one receiving this bad service at resturants throughout the metro. But for some reason, when it happens at the Peachtree (AND THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR BAD FOOD OR SERVICE), it's like the world is ending. Blogs, articles, comments come from everywhere. They threaten to call the mayor, governor, national guard and naval reserves. Surely I jest, but it feels that way. We are improving everyday with our total customer service, as well as a three month old restaurant can. Our application box is full of inner-city KIDS who never waited a day in their lives. They haven't been exposed to a 3,4 or five star restaurant....EVER!!!. So not only do we have to train them on being outstanding servers, we have to teach them simple MANNERS!! Go figure. It's not their fault, it's what life has dealt us all. But we will not complain, whine or quit. Actually it's the opposite, because we know that we are contributing to this community, in a small but significant way. What we teach them they will carry thoughout their lives and we are surely proud of that. P.S.And by the way, if you know any experienced servers or bartenders I'm hiring!!!

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Posted by roy on March 5, 2009 at 2:18 PM

Dear Lauren:

Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!!

P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

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Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 2:16 PM

Dear Lauren:

Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!!

P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

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Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 2:15 PM

Dear Lauren:

Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!!

P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

report   
Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 2:14 PM

Dear Lauren:

Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!!

P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

report   
Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 2:13 PM

Dear Lauren:

Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!!

P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

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Posted by the truth1 on March 5, 2009 at 2:11 PM

Editor's note:

Charles Ferruzza has never reviewed this location of the Peachtree Restaurant. He has reviewed other Peachtree locations -- just as he has reviewed various incarnations of, for example, Blue Koi and the Bristol.

And, in response to Mayo Tina, Ferruzza reviewed Bice Bistro on October 21, 2008. Here's a link: http://www.pitch.com/2008-10-2...

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Posted by C.J. Janovy on March 5, 2009 at 2:09 PM

WOW!
Lauren in Mission Hills, do the Peachtree a favor and stay away my family and I have dined at the Peachtree for years and never ONCE GOTTEN SICK!!
It appears that the Willises has committed a crime and expanded. I dine at various restaurant throughout the city and it is not unusual for a restaurant run out of an item.
I guess at the Peachtree it's a crime it's obvious you and Charles came to nitpick the place.

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Posted by may tina on March 5, 2009 at 2:07 PM

If Charles wants the Peachtree to succeed and was not attacking the Peachtree then explain why Bice Bistro opened across the street in October of 2008 and 801 Chop House opened in the same block November of 2008 and Charles hasn't reviewed either restasurant and he's reviewed the Peachtree TWICE.

Lauren, the Peachtree does need not you or Charles to succeed do them a favor and stay away. What cedible FOOD CRITIC WOULD TAKE THE ADVICE OF 12 YEAR OLD CHILD.

It's obvious Charles and you can't cook and shcouldn't judge food.

DO THE PEACHTREE A FAVOR AND STAY AWAY AND WATCH THEM SUCCEED.


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Posted by mayo tina on March 5, 2009 at 1:44 PM

I have to say this was the 1st time I ate at Peachtree and I was very much NOT impressed. I got sick for days after I ate at Peachtree. I was not impressed at all with the choices of food items on the menu and thought how can they fuck up fish. Other then to dry. They really know how.

I think the GM should focus more on the service and not worry about how many times Charles reviews Peachtree. Spend time on making your place better and one idea would be to buy creamers.

Sincerely,
Lauren
(yes, the lady in the review )

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Posted by Lauren on March 5, 2009 at 12:24 PM

Its me the Lauren in the Review.

I have to put my 2 cents in here. I never been to any of the Peachtree's and I was sick for 3 days after I left.
I was stunned that they didn't event garnish the dishes with fresh parsley. Everything on my plate look like it came from the frozen food section. Crinkle Cut Sweet Potato Fries is great in a Fast Food Chain but in a "classy place" I think not.


Oh and get some creamers!!

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Posted by Lauren on March 5, 2009 at 12:17 PM

This vitriol is really perplexing. While this review highlights some shortcomings in service and presentation of the food, I would hardly characterize it as hateful or even nitpicky. I think Mr. Ferruzza wants the Peachtree to succeed, as does almost everyone in Kansas City. That is a luxury few restaurants enjoy.

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Posted by DLC on March 5, 2009 at 12:09 PM

I've eaten at the KCP&L Peachtree twice now. Once in December 2008 and once in January 2009. While I found the food excellent, the service is amateurish at best. On both visits the servers took too long delivering drinks, taking dinner orders, delivering food and stopping by the tables to check on the diners. Servers also held us hostage with that typical practice of dropping the check with a chirpy "pay me when you're ready!" and then disappearing for 20 minutes to take care of other tables. I'll probably go back, but I'll make sure I have nothing else to do after dinner and I'll order my cocktail and appetizer the moment my butt hits the chair. Ferruzza was spot on. Peach Tree manager, accept the criticism and polish the service.

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Posted by Zelda on March 5, 2009 at 11:57 AM

I think I need to clarify some very absurd misinformation and misconceptions here. The Peachtree Restaurant in the Power & Light District was reviewed for the one and only time this week. There have been references to the restaurant and some of its dishes in other articles and blog posts, but the Cafe review this week marks the only time that this restaurant has been given a full review. There was a review of the Peach Tree Restaurant in Lee's Summit in May of 2008. It is a very different restaurant from the venue in the Power & Light, thus it required a separate and distinctive review. I might note that the Peachtree restaurants are family-owned, not operated by a corporate chain. Each of the restaurants, including the now-closed facility at 18th and Paseo, were unique in their own way. As to the comment that I did not review the Bice Bistro -- that is patently false. That restaurant received a review on October 21, 2008. I encourage you to look it up on our archives.

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Posted by Charles on March 5, 2009 at 11:38 AM

Dear Lauren: Please don't be so mean. If you and your partner didn't start each morning with a special martini then maybe you could think clearly. You know alcohol truly kills your brain cells. Experts say that it is a gateway drug, and your comments surely prove you are on someting other than alcohol. I suggest you enter into a help program...it's called Alcoholics Anonymous. I hear they do great things for people like yourself. And if you got sick, it wasn't from our fish. You KNOW it was a prolonged HANGOVER!!! So the next time you feel the urge to critique someone else, leave your phone number to the strip club so guys can request a lap dance........and special cocktail!!! P.S. Creamers don't go in martini's!!!

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Posted by the truth on March 5, 2009 at 11:16 AM
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