Page 3 of 3
I had equally good luck on the more extensive seafood side of the menu, relishing a flaky, featherlight Chilean sea bass ($22.95) served with a beurre blanc or a much zestier green chile sauce. (I asked for both.) The dozen or so offerings include the real J. Pierpont Morgan's favorite sort of luxe fare: lobster (a grilled 9-ounce tail basted in butter; $25.95). This restaurant clearly hopes to give the more established seafood joints in town -- such as the venerable Bristol, whose style (also created by Paul Robinson) is evoked with far more glamour here -- a run for their money. But will local patrons, who once flocked to Union Station for the more lowbrow Colony Lobster Pot, put their money where their mouths are for $21.95 lemon sole roulade (fattened up with mushrooms inside and blanketed with a shellfish cream) or a $19.95 salmon in a spicy Chinese mustard glaze?
I would, citing a spectacular dish of fat, firm scallops ($17.95) as the best justification for giving Pierpont's seafood the highest rating. Tucked into a parchment bag with julienne vegetables and a dollop of saffron-dill butter, the scallops are roasted until the parchment browns, the distinct flavors have melded into a fragrant and delicious broth, and those juicy scallops are nothing short of heavenly. The wine list is fine, offering primarily California vintages (with a few Italian and Oregon labels too), mostly in the reasonable $17 to $30 range.
The dessert selection certainly could be more interesting. There's the ubiquitous crème brulée, a trio of sassy sorbets, and (yawn) carrot cake. Chef Brooks has been known to rhapsodize over his kitchen's novel approach to carrot cake (also the longtime signature dessert at the Bristol), which is served, in this incarnation, toasted and coated with a white chocolate cream cheese ($4.95), but warm and crusty does not a better carrot cake make.
Surely with J.P. Morgan's name attached to this venue, the offerings might have included something far more extravagant than a signature slab of carrot cake. Baked Alaska, perhaps? A chocolate something dusted with gold leaf? Some additional tinkering with the menu is in order before the stock here rises.
Contact Charles Ferruzza at 816-218-6925.
FOUR-STAR RATING FROM FAIR TO EXCELLENT300 W. Pershing, KCMO, 816-221-5111.
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m.
(Based on a complete meal for one,
excluding alcoholic beverages):
$: Inexpensive, up to $10
$$: Moderate, $10$20
$$$: Expensive, $20$30
$$$$: Very expensive, $30 and up