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Even plain toast is elevated here: nine-grain bread or ciabatta, served with butter or apricot preserves. If the latter has, to my tongue, the alarming consistency of Gerber's baby food, it can be forgotten with a sip of the smooth and brisk coffee. Urban Table's java comes from Intelligentsia, the Chicago company that has become a mainstay on the lists of coffee elitists around the country. You don't have to be a snob to know how good this brew is, though. Unlike so much of what people have learned to tolerate, this coffee is blessedly far from bitter.
At any hour, even early in the day, the main dining room here is insufferably noisy. The best refuge is the enclosed sidewalk porch around the restaurant's perimeter. One can actually have a quiet, intimate conversation that way. And on a sunny Sunday morning, that's a joy, no matter what part of town you're dining in.
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