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The world may not be filled with fans of greasy, gloppy Tex-Mex, but Kansas City certainly is. So Zócalo's challenge is substantial: It must convince lovers of combination platters, nachos and taco salads to expand their culinary horizons. Any Mexican restaurant can offer tacos and enchiladas. Zócalo serves braised-short-rib tacos, seafood enchiladas stuffed with lump crabmeat and poached shrimp, and an enchilada made with (the menu warns) "terrorized carrots." (Maybe all that salt scares them.)
The Spanish word zócalo translates as "town square" or "meeting place." It's a nod to the Plaza. I hope Zócalo works enough toward its potential for people to make it a regular meeting place. I, for one, am OK with going back.